Savoring the Sights of Scotland

We made a dream come true and spent 2 weeks driving more than 2,600 miles around Scotland and northern England.

December 13, 2024

After a week in Prague, Munich, and Vienna, I continued my sabbatical making one of my lifelong dreams come true with a road trip around Scotland with my mom and sister.

Sights

Central & Northeast

Pittenweem

We kicked off Scotland properly with fish and chips in Pittenweem, the cutest fishing village any of us had ever seen.

Crawford Priory

We followed the fishing village with a roam through ruins of an abandoned estate.

Dunino Den & Abbey

A short walk behind Dunino Abbey is Dunino Den, an ancient druid worship site nestled next to a creek in the woods. Going down a set of stairs hewn out of the rock brings you to an unnervingly silent site featuring Celtic carvings and offerings for pacifying the fairies that supposedly haunt the area. We weren't willing to risk any trickery, so left tiny offerings just in case.

St. Andrews

On our way to our coastal bothy in Aberdeen, we drove through St. Andrews to marvel at masonry, roses and the sea.

Elgin

The quick stop in Elgin was worth it for the cathedral ruins.

Stirling and Dunfermline

We got our history fix visiting The National Wallace Monument, Stirling Castle, and Dunfermline Abbey and Palace.

Highlands

Loch Ness

After a quick stop in Inverness for lunch and shopping, we made our way down the seemingly never-ending road that wound along Loch Ness. Thankfully, we got some breathtaking views of the lake at sunset before checking in to one of our favorite stays on our trip, the Loch Ness Inn. I think it was the adorable logo that got us.

Urquhart Castle

If you're going to build a castle, why not do it on a hill overlooking Loch Ness?

Scenes from the Highlands

After Loch Ness, we spent a day driving through the highlands and along the northern coast before our stay in Thurso.

Allt Chranaidh Waterfall

About a third of a mile up the (very muddy, rocky and rooty) trail to Eas a Chual Aluinn Waterfall, Allt Chranaidh Waterfall sits prettily nestled between the cliffs.

Durness Beach

By far the windiest and steepest-to-descend beach we've ever walked, Durness Beach was made all the more spectacular by the waterfall tucked into the hillside behind it.

Duncansby Stacks

Despite it being a short walk to the stacks viewpoint, we were fighting to stay vertical in our battle with the wind—which we were told was fierce and forceful on even the loveliest days.

Foulis Castle

We made another dream come true by staying in a castle with the most beautiful courtyard garden that was grown for brisk evening strolls. More impressively, the family that owns it has done so for 700 years.

Eilean Donan Castle

We couldn't resist the draw of Eilean Donan Castle—resting on its own island against a backdrop of mountains, with boobries (the mythical version of cormorants) lurking on the rocks surrounding the sea loch.

Skye

Highland cows

We caught the perfect moment on our arrival to the Isle of Skye: Highland cows grazing against an idyllic Scottish backdrop.

Sligachan Old Bridge

Legend has it that if you dip your face in the enchanted waters flowing beneath the bridge for 7 seconds, you'll be granted eternal beauty. I, who am still waiting on eloquence from kissing the Blarney Stone, am hoping both gifts will hit me at the same time.

Fairy Pools

Although we saw no selkies bathing in the pools (they must really prefer the light of the full moon), following the creek and waterfalls up the mountain was magical in itself.

Old Man of Storr

One of my favorite hikes on Skye, we went almost 3.5 miles and 1,200 up the mountain—appreciating the vibrant green moss against the black basalt terrain that was made even more mystical by the fog surrounding Old Man of Storr.

The Quiraing

Due to myself almost getting lost, encountering a French couple who was actually lost, and the ankle-deep mud cause by the incessant sprinkling, I wouldn't recommend this hike alone for novice hikers. Views were spectacular if you're willing to brave it, though.

Kilt Rock

We happened to drive by Kilt Rock right at sunrise one morning, which turned out to be one incredible discovery.

Western Skye

A bit less busy but no less beautiful, the western side of Skye has plenty of its own features to flaunt.

Neist Point

If anybody knows the purpose or symbolism behind the brass ball embedded into the rock atop the point, please do put me out of my curiosity.

Other sights

Skye Weavers

Stein Inn

Skyeskyns

If we weren't so excited for the islands that awaited us, we probably would have never left our perfect little pod and it's incredible views of Skye.

Islands

We spent a day driving across the Isle of Mull, which alone was worth the trek, to visit Iona and Staffa.

Iona

A beautiful little island with charming shops, farm-to-table restaurants (which unfortunately closed right when we needed a late lunch), and stunning ocean views—not to mention the breathtaking medieval Iona Abbey & Nunnery.

Staffa

Although we couldn't walk on the island as normal, the boat ride out to circle the island and learn about its history and puffin population was still a lovely day.

Our second pod in Fort William was unfortunately so cold we couldn't take the discomfort, so we snagged a room at The Inn at Ardgour, where very much appreciated the comforting food and beer, good conversation with the manager, and stunning sunrise views overlooking the lake.

It was also conveniently right across from the ferry we needed to take to make our way to Glencoe.

Glencoe

Glen Nevis

I was a bit too ambitious in wanting to trek the Devil's Ridge, a scramble along the mountain's ridge line on the Ring of Steall. I made it just over 2 miles and almost 2,900 up before the sloshy crushed granite and intimidating clouds had me turning around—and promising to tackle it again one day.

Glenfinnan

We had a day of all things Harry Potter by luckily catching the Hogwarts Express (Jacobite Steam Train) crossing the Glenfinnan Viaduct, and seeing the Black Lake (Loch Shiel) and Dumbledore's grave (Eilean na Moine). Bonus views were the Glennfinan Monument and a sweet little church that sat above the lake.

Three Sisters

One couple was fortunate to have this awe-inspiring scene as their wedding backdrop.

Glen Etive

Being huge James Bond fans, we couldn't go without driving the road he and M did in Skyfall.

Glasgow

Drymen

An hour outside of Glasgow is the village of Drymen inside Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park, where we stayed above The Clachan, the oldest licensed pub in Scotland.

The city

In Glasgow, we stayed above Babbity Bowster, a pub with live Scottish music and a cheeky menu, which was perfectly located for wandering the charismatic city.

Glasgow Cathedral

Borderlands

Melrose Abbey

The abbey—and the boutiques, ice cream parlor and chocolate shop in town—were a lovely way to break up our drive to stay in England for a day.

Alnwick

The village

We stayed at Crux, a wizard-themed inn with nods to Harry Potter, in the Adventurers room that featured all things Marauders.

We also ate at The Dirty Bottles, the pub connected to the inn, which got it's name from the bottles encased in the window since the 1700s for this reason:

"These here bottles have remained untouched since 1725, when the then landlord dropped down dead after touching them, his wife proclaimed them cursed and they have remained locked in this window ever since for the protection of all who pass by, although other eerie happenings still continue within."

Alnwick Castle

The Lion Bridge

Edinburgh

Ironically—even with all of the history and ornate architecture—I think the most interesting thing about Edinburgh was the closes, all of the narrow, almost hidden alleyways that short-cut a path to different markets and areas.

Royal Mile

Probably the prettiest street we've ever walked, the Royal Mile had enough shopping and stunning architecture to entertain us for days.

Edinburgh Castle

Our favorite part of Edinburgh Castle was seeing the Honours (Crown jewels) of Scotland, and walking were they hidden under the castle during WWII.

Greyfriars Bobby

Featuring the most loyal boy there ever was, Greyfriars Bobby guarded his late owner's grave 14 years.

Princes Street Gardens

The gardens, and beautiful statues and structures within, were a nice little solace from the the city flurry.

Calton Hill

The views overlooking the city reward the steep trek up the hill's stairs.

Dean Village

The charming village along the river was another quiet break from the Edinburgh bustle.

Johnnie Walker Experience

Not being huge whiskey fans, we didn't expect to love the experience as much as we did.

The Lost Close

If there's a chance to taste gin in an underground close that was hidden for 200 years until it was discovered during renovations in 2019, I'm going to take it.

City wandering

Having stayed a bit north of the city, we got in plenty of wandering to appreciate the city's big sights and little details.

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